Baselworld 2017: Rolex and Patek shock fans.

Rolex and Patek Philippe Are Not the Only Surprises | 2017 Baselworld
By Zhang Fan | ctime.com | Updated: November 5, 2024

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A Look Back at Baselworld 2017

On the afternoon of the 22nd, I was anxiously waiting in my Shanghai office for news from our Baselworld team in Switzerland. Suddenly, a message popped up on Weibo—my colleague Xin Jie had gotten her hands on Rolex’s 2017 releases eight hours before the official announcement. I thought, “This can’t be real.” An hour later, she published the information on our official WeChat account. Meanwhile, global media was silent.

Through this, a group of us in China were the first to see Rolex’s new collection. Astonishingly, her predictions were entirely accurate.

But what shocked me more than the leaks was Rolex’s bold shift. After six decades, they’ve introduced a moonphase watch!

Rolex’s Surprises at Baselworld 2017

Cellini Moonphase

• Case: 39mm, gold
• Dial: Meteorite moonphase
• Strap: Alligator leather
• Price: $26,000+
• 

Rolex, known for durable tool watches, had abandoned complications like the moonphase. Its return is not just a watch but a signal—perhaps a shift in their long-standing values.

Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary Edition

The new Sea-Dweller comes with:

• Case Size: 43mm (a jump from the classic 40mm)
• Cyclops Lens: Traditionally reserved for the Submariner
• Movement: Caliber 3235

Fans are divided. Some criticize the cyclops lens and larger size, while others hail it as a milestone. Either way, it’s undeniably a bold move.

Sky-Dweller Two-Tone

A high-end flagship simplified with a steel-gold two-tone finish, making it lighter and more accessible.

Yacht-Master II and Rainbow Bezel

While the stainless-steel Yacht-Master II raised eyebrows, the rainbow bezel version stole the show, sparking polarized reactions. Love it or hate it, Rolex is clearly pushing boundaries.

Patek Philippe’s Bold Innovations

Compared to Rolex’s daring moves, Patek Philippe surprised everyone with groundbreaking releases:

• 5320G Perpetual Calendar: Classic yet modern.
• 5372 Split-Second Chronograph: Intricate design.
• 5131P Platinum World Time: Exquisite handcraftsmanship.
• 5650 Aquanaut: Featuring an open-dial mechanism and limited to 500 pieces—a first in Patek’s history.

Even the 5960 series returned in gold (previously reserved for VIPs), challenging conventions.

The Changing Landscape of Luxury Watches

Other Noteworthy Brands:

• Longines: Revitalized with the Conquest V.H.P. quartz series.
• Bulgari: Continued success with the Octo Finissimo line.
• Omega: Celebrated the 60th anniversary of the Speedmaster with stunning reissues.
• Tudor x Breitling: Surprising collaboration in movement exchange.
• Oris: Defying odds with global acclaim for its sports watches.
• 

Reflections on Change

Even industry titans like Rolex and Patek Philippe are breaking traditions to adapt to a shifting market. This boldness mirrors the resilience of Swiss watchmakers during the quartz crisis.

Change is challenging, but without it, survival is impossible. The only constant is our love for watches—their beauty, craftsmanship, and the timeless stories they tell.

As Dickens said:

“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times….”

This era of change might just be the next golden age of watchmaking.